Snoop Dogg-inspired looks and lowriders. Adam Kimmel always puts on a show but his clothes back it up. Gangster tailoring and sportswear with a more wearable, grown-up edge than Tisci’s take on it. Photos by my friend Geraldine over at Café Mode.
Round-up of the key menswear collections for spring/summer 2004 from that season’s AnOther magazine. Relaxed tailoring, washed leather finishes, summer suedes, airy hand knits, and casual jersey basics. The subtle Americana influences remind me a lot of the collections I saw at the recent tradeshows in Paris, especially Assembly New York.
Pinched this from a copy of Madame Figaro in my hotel foyer, photographer Jean-Paul Goode with Vanessa Paradis on the set of her 1992 Chanel songbird ad. Sucked in by the 90s volume in that silhouette: MA1 nylon bomber jacket, cropped cigar-leg pants, and the battered white Derbys to top it all off.
I can see how My Own Private Idaho might be a tired reference, but in this feature from Interview magazine Keanu Reeves and River Phoenix look amazing. Biker, bum fluff, floppy curtains, dodgy Baroque shirt. Classic bromance.
Awesome birthday present no.2: my double-sided collage cut-up piece by young Greek artist New Yorka. Just need to decide which side to have on show and then save up for a proper frame.
Natalia Brilli uses the tactile appeal of organic surfaces to transform everyday objects into seductive talismans. Leather, stone and hand-wrought metal finishes lend her chains, pendants, and soft accessories a harder edge. For her latest project the Paris-based designer created a collection of leather-covered animal skulls, updating the concept of hunting trophies with a new sense of morbid beauty. Sang Bleu caught up with her to discuss the dark driving force behind her work.
Sang Bleu: How did you get to where you are now?
Natalia Brilli: I didn’t decide to be an accessories designer. In fact I used to be a scenographer, and then by chance and by meeting people I started to work in fashion. Wanting to deepen my knowledge of the industry I enrolled in the master’s degree program at Institut Français de la Mode (IFM), a school founded by Pierre Bergé. After graduating I spent 4 years alongside Olivier Theyskens at Rochas and at the same time created my own accessories line…
I don’t make it to Brighton that often but always end up in Brighton Books on Kensington Gardens when I do. Have had my eye on a first edition of A Canticle for Leibowitz gathering dust on a shelf there for years now. Went in there on Friday and my dad bought me this Malanga book for my birthday. Loads of famous portraits in there of Patti Smith, Joe Dellesandro, Dennis Hopper, etc. The usual NYC mix of Warhol superstars, beat writers, sugar daddy collectors and struggling artists. Still inspiring today. I didn’t know that Malanga had done nudes later in his career though. The pictures are good; the titles not so much.
The Maison Martin Margiela 20 exhibition at Somerset House brought back memories of that cinema party at Pitti Uomo autumn/winter 2006/07 (still have the MMM espresso cup invite somewhere). True to the look of the label’s Paris atelier it ticks all the expected boxes: caravan out front, whitewashing, multiple tabi shoes, and dust sheets. Getting close to such iconic garments is a treat in itself and helps explain how Margiela made design concepts like deconstruction, hybridism, and trompe-l’œil feel sophisticated and original. In the hands of lesser designers the results can be naff. Highlight for me though was the video instalment featuring looped catwalks, backstage clips, and grainy collection previews played against a musical backdrop of old show soundtracks. The relationship between fashion and film strong as ever. (images scanned from the catalogue)